Selfmade

All pictures from detail improvements or reorganisations to your GTS ' sens sent by you are shown on this side. It was simply necessary for this to set up a site of one's own since I get more and more pictures of you. Many thanks for it so and carries on please. The one or other perhaps are encouraged for screwing by this gallery.

Click on the picture and you land at the Yamaha USA. These have the workshop manual with explosion drawings online. If I am mistaken, please correct me but I think the spare part numbers are not compatible with the German or European models. The explosion drawings but identically and very good. Follow the 1-2-3 steps and feel loose. Rainer, many Thanks.

Form 1 and 2: It is at it a visually doubtful and costly mirror prolongation superfluously makes itself to it around a third mirror. I do not know neither twist head nor raise the arm like the consideration with the prolongation is, with the third mirror excellent, of needs is. I had the fork bridge at my first GTS I had equippedly to raise the arm on the left or on the right through this with a 170s handlebar with that I could see something. The greatest deficit: One had to cut the slice out on the left and on the right. I still had a new 120s handlebar at the new GTS in the cellar. After the assembly the great disillusionment, consideration the same zero because the handlebar hangs fully in the mirror. The plate cuts advantage, none out necessary. The third mirror is fastened to a newly milled half-shell by the clutch handle instead of the standard ones. Mirror glass bought, mirror case and fastening through personal effort.

Form 4: Here I have made 2 cover caps from aluminium since the suitcases if it comes up perhaps 2 times in the year I use, I was for me there the suitcase holders visual a thorn in the eye. No picture has made from aluminium and provided with a GTS stroke the suitcase holders completely (unfortunately available). It sees since still it is the original GTS stroke's turn not particularly out if the suitcase holders are permanently put together. Well, I hope for it you can send others my changes and I also learn a couple of ideas of GTS-Ownern get (one wants to have to make what)! in this meaning REINER.

Hi, I have made my thoughts to me to the tankbag topic at the GTS also that way. There I too expensively for the GTS was the original tank rucksack and the mounting seemed too circumstantial to me when tanking with the zip-fastener. I have rebuilt my available magnet tank rucksack so that it is dismantled open and again with a grip. To this I have designed the mount to be seen on the photos from VA. The mount consists of 2 parts. A part is where the two tank disguisings are also screwed on fastened to the help framework at the GTS behind the control head. The 2nd part is fastened to the end wall of the tankbag. The tankbag is put in the mount from the front at the GTS and protects itself by folding down itself. A belt simply became sewn-inly you put in this one under the filler cap cover behind at the underside of the tankbag. For tanking the flap is opened anyway, the belt becomes free and the tankbag can on end be turned forwards. After that flap simply tanks the tankbag under the tank lid put down flaps and the back belt, to (monkey dead, ready.) The tankbag holds 11 l and disappears completely behind the plate. This fastening suffices both at quite empty as also full bag up to the Vmax perfect through this. I have enclosed a couple of photos. The original then can be seen on the meeting.

Arno K. has put himself in the things in the area of Topcase correctly as one can recognize by the following pictures easily:

Wants me here also as stub axle steered in the round to word report hello everyone together? I drive a GTS now for approx. 2 years and am on the search for a payable Topcasehalter since this time, a) not spoiled the whole beauty of the GTS and b) primarily remains payable. Of course not has got rich and has given on it me then itself. Under the rubber cover of the Back 4 screws M 6 exist these hold merely the Back tight though at a metal scaffolding. I have started there and imaginary one can make what from this.

Form Topcase 1 - shows the required fastening drillings red highlightedly. The aluminium plate is 5 mm strong, the form is produced after the adapter plate of the respective Topcase type on hand. 4 fastening drillings are needed. All other drillings either are for the fastening of the adapter plate or serve as a water expiry. Merely the middle drilling behind is against vibrate perhaps urgently as an additional fastening. Used Topcase Bieffe 45 l. Form Topcase 2 - dto. from below. Form Topcase 3 - with an adapter plate put together. Form Topcase 4 - with an adapter plate view of below put together. Form Topcase 5 - Spacing bolt between Heckbürzel and plate, for a long time in front short behind. Required fastening screws of M 6 x 50 Inbus, perhaps shorten respect, screws mustn't push on electronics!! Form Topcase 6 - Topcase mounts. Form Topcase 7 - only Topcase alone. Form Topcase 8 - complete with side suitcases. Form Topcase 9 - top view mounts without suitcases. Form Topcase 10 - additional reinforcements prevent vibrations. These reinforcements are screwed together behind in the middle water expiry hole and support themselves over the number-plate holder. To this a rectangular plate which is provided with 2 drillings by which the fastening screws of the number-plate holder go through is welded on at the reinforcements.

I cannot say expenditure of work for a skilful craftsman approx. 3-4 hour with painting costs approx. 5 hour, the material lay in the hut apart from varnish where I create as scrap around.

What has let occur good to Andreas Prehl to the tiresome topic of the Oil-Refill at the GTS 1000 correctly. See yourself:

I have what there what would have earned a place on the Selfmade-Site actually: )))): Every GTS driver knows the problem with the circumstantial Oilrefill. I think I have made something quite nice there. First I has the Oilscrew provided threads with 1/4 " and one screwed a spout of a fast clutch (figure 1). A tube is attached with a fast clutch to the changed Oilscrew this one has an open spout on the other side again. By this tube the oil is poured. The length of the tube is chosen so that it can be comfortible pulled out behind the engine disguising. So all rag work on the engine disguising and on the Oilscrew is dropped. For closind the System the open end must locked with a fast clutch again. I have fastened these to the engine block with a holder (figure 2). This has the advantage that the tube is fixed in a suitable place. In addition, the fast clutches and the tube remain clean. A fastening in every other suitable place (e.g. in the glove compartment) is also possible of course. As near a suitable bottle is a fast clutch is needed also installed into the lids (figure 3). The filling tube is simply drawn (at the motorcycle block) and connected with the after filling bottle from the fast clutch to Refill now. (Form 4). The oil can be pushed from the bottle over the filling tube into the engine now. If the desired oil level is reached, simply turning the bottle over again, opening the fast clutch and plugging the filling tube in to the fast clutch at the engine again. Ready! The whole procedure does not last for any minute, the clutches are absolutely thick (so still not once the Oil-Bottle must be unscrewed) and no single drop is lost. Looks like the whole matter in the condition put together can be seen on figure 5. The system is ideally suitable for the oil refill (shall now and then be necessary). At an engine oil change the engine disguising is dismantled anyway. The Öleinfüllen more simply goes because of the greater quantity of oil about the Öleinfüllstutzen there. For this the filling tube then simply can be removed at the Oilscrew and is not restricting if this shall be opened. You can get further information with me. Simply mail:jobaro@t-online.de.

Peter Mund has let the bench of its EFI rebuilt at Jungbluth. You see the result here.

Hello Martin. Here the pictures of my new bench. I have recently had my bank changed for me at Topsaddlery. I must say I am overwhelmed by the result. Look under the following link: http://www.topsaddlery.com/de/sel_visu.php4?marque=8&type=261. There one can the colours and the type choose themselves for the upholstery. There is a list with dealers who represent Topsaddlery. I have paid 248. € for my bench, incl. the shipment to France and back. The new bench has received GTS stroke in the suitable colour to the motorcycle, one. My EFI is by the way red and I have chosen the leather and the Keder suitably with the dealer who has all leather colour samples. The whole has this lasted for dispatch just, incl. 2 weeks. Greetings Martin Seifert.

This excellent copy of a bench comes from Harm Reesing. It is an altered original bench:

You will contact the Saddler? Mailto: sattler@gts1000.net .You immediately receive answer.

Since everybody who has his bench clothed newly has worked with leather somehow, we have gone another way once. Our Corbin sofa needed it really urgently and the design of the Picasso is anyway already unusual there, why then at the bench stop that? No Sir. The black material is high-quality artificial leather and the seats are with a Microfaser similar, absolutely waterproof material obtained (no Alcantara). The material comes predominantly onto yachts to use and therefore is conceived for great loads and extreme weather influences. Of course a very big advantage is also the price for this really well done work: Less than € 200.

Our "Mr. Screwer" Andreas Prehl has hit out again. Have a look at his new rear wheel cover ...

Warning indicators are always a topic. Arno Kretzer has himself built one together with his neighbour.

Hello Martin, what else can a man do in this weather conditions? I have always been interested in flashing warning lights. The plants available from the accessories trade had a decisive disadvantage at my GTS caught to make these plants independent to themselves as of approx. 5000 turns. This then sees making out most respectfully, if one shoots around the corners, place well, too but this is a little annoyingly then taken in the reason anyway. The electromagnetic disturbances of the EFI are well flashing warning lights reason for it become independent this one. So I and my neighbour have for Volkmar, his sign GPZ 1100 driver, made an own one for us. The first attempt was also not quite happy but the second test was a complete success. It is this plant to obtain (looks in on Volkmar's home page) www.volkmarheinz.de either from me or from Volkmar. The heating handle control shown there comes as near. Enclosed still a couple of pictures of the flashing warning lights. Cost such approx. € 50 plus € 8 transportation costs. Greetings Arno.

Hello GTS municipality, hello Martin, the winter is long and coldly since otherwise one has to do nothing, my neighbour and I have further screwed around at our bikes. Reason of the cold it was obvious to install heating handles. The silly switches, On/offstage, hot+means were us too rough. Volkmar has developed a direct heating handle control, after that this one also remembers adjusted like it before was. This control is fitted at a Kawa GPZ 1100+at my GTS 1000 now. Enclosed the operating instructions and pictures. You can if refer interest insists either over me or over Volkmar, www.volkmarheinz.de do them.

The next trick of our "Mr. Screw" Andreas Prehl: GTS 1000 with a REMUS Exhaust.

Back silencer: Remus (CBR 900), adapter to Kat: GTS 1000 reengineered, Sound: pithy, not too loud,

MOT: (Note of the webmaster: Andreas, I have left the comment out). Best Regards, Andreas from Lemgo

Heinz from Aurich sent this, it´s also an interesting way: The reduction on 34 hp with MOT blessing.

Form 1: The metal provides that you can not completely turn the gas handle, the stop shall beat at stretched bowden cable against the metal (she still has 98 hp). Form 2 and 3: Here the leadership for the bowden cable which draws the metal. (still 98 hp). Form 4 shows the bowden cable drawn. The gas stop beats against the metal, the throttle valves are only a bit open through this. ( She has 34 hp now and under 6000U/min). Form 5 shows the metal and the attack once again, the throttle valves no longer completely open, the GTS is very slow. ( 160 km/h). Material: You need a thin metal in L form, 2.5 x2, 5 cm on the long sides and 1.5 x1, 5 cm on the narrow sides. A feather which pulls the metal back into the original state again, L=approx. 8 cm. A bowden cable and a lever arm (choke or bicycle wiring), a couple of screws and still a metal unites (trie out how big) around the bowden cable to fasten. Not forgot the thick Wire and the insides of an insulating screw joint, to connect wire and bowden cable.

A lot of fun with screwing so. Is not at all as heavy as it looks. Tear have typed in on the performance test and then to the MOT and on 34 hp. Then be in the vehicle registration certificate Ziff. 7( In Germany): "Leistungsred. durch Gasanschlag, Kennz. BOE 109 ohne Beschränk. od. Aufl.," . and may everybody, who can drive only to 34 hp finally drive a GTS. Greetings, Heinz from Aurich.

Stefan Mende has put the CLS 200 µ together at his GTS. Here the photos and a small description:

Hello. Perhaps I have something for the Selfmade-Side here: I have installed the CLS200 µ ans i am very content. The 250 ml tank has been installed to place of the toolkit, electronics lies under the bench where otherwise the manual finds board. Tip: The fuseholder should be taken apart and the protector removed to get to the battery around the power supply. One then gets around with a little patience at the plastic framework of the rear wheel cover. Best wishes. Stefan Mende

The following remark also comes to the CLS 200 µ from Arno Kretzer together with picture:

Hello stub axle steered, still a tip for the accommodation of the safeguarding of the chain Oilers of Stefan Mende. One does not need it fits excellently in the cut-out between control unit and battery receptacle to take the safeguarding apart/build, see picture. Greetings Arno.

I would like to write the story for this reorganisation here, unfortunately, the owner of the piece of jewellery is unknown (yet):

Hello from Berlin, i have changed at my EFI this weekend what has annoyed me since the first journey. The outside mirrors. Have which one added of Louis of the CBR 600/900/1000. Price per piece 24.95 €. Order-No.:.10028065 and 10028066. Approx. 4-5 hour work. The disguising changed, new or greater holes into the disguising drilled and the self-adhesive aluminium metal (also of Louis for € 3.95) cut original hold plates to size of under than cover for the holes. The success is fantastic, I do not need my gloves for me now any more, this looks at the levers and the elbows in the mirrors but sees what happened behind me. The mirrors are approx. 5-6 cm further out and also ca.5-6 cm higher. Joy at more consideration, Ralf.

At the headlights the dipped headlights are a xenon headlight, the high beam unfortunately must remain halogen light. Furthermore the wiring of the headlights had to be changed: Dipped headlights mustn't go out when switching over to high beam, otherwise one would drive in the dark when fading out for a moment. The xenon light must be ignited first. The road illumination is gigantically !!! In addition, I have, at once, then removes the end book actions gene of the mirror mounts with that there is a clean round front. Mirrors are of a GPZ1100. The most important for the end: The whole MOT typed in (after 3 tests.) Knut.

Who does say that there must be only the GTS and the Bimota with stub axle, then?

Ralph Weiß has sent me the pictures. Unfortunately, the racetrack is not known to me.

He wrote this to me. He turned out on a secondary road into thick smoke because a farmer had made fire next-door on the field. He lost the orientation completely and drove frontally together with a car whose driver also could see nothing in front of smoke. Result: An impressive interior view of the stub axle ... . From 2006 the new one: Paul has bought the GTS of his dealer back. He gets the required spare parts favourably from an in front of leading model of Yamaha Denmark.

I recently had the big drum for stirred Bio-Fix quickly in the forum. Do not wrongly, have a look at the photos.

Waited and wiped off respectively ca.5 min, one sprayed twice. The gleam still is polish, has refreshed it with Autosol only easily again of the last. Bio-Fix quickly is degradable fully biologically as said and you deliver into amounts of 1.2 or 5 l. There it but for normal pollutions 1:10 proportionally is mixed with water it suffices eternally. The notorious insects on the disguising and the plate are no more topic with the things either. Service, waiting, wipe off...away. And it attacks in no way varnish. Dispatch and a sample bottle (only at the 1st order) cost 1 L, incl. € 19.90 €uro, incl. VAT. At interest on the bottle clicks, you then come directly to the supplier where I have ordered it. The things put away only for certain, then if your better halves get them into the fingers it is too late ...

So that Arno always finds the way home for certain, he has mounted on his EFI a GPS device:

Hello, here a couple of pictures for the extension of a navigation system on Pocket PC basis (Aldi Medion MD 41600) to the GTS. Turns excellently, tried out already. What must be changed still but I think this comes only in the winter (also new pictures then come) the power supply is, this one shall to a watertight area, this is not the case at the moment yet? Yes, drives also only in fine weather.:-) Greetings Arno

The photos and the declaration about the removing of the Tank lid also come from Arno:

Emptying the tank. The tank and side disguising must down improve to this -- respect dismantle the side disguising after behind move away at an angle -- otherwise break off the hold pieces. The fuel pump raked side improve the signaling transmitter of the fuel gauge on the left side improve on this one. Putting eight screws on when installing on the specified torques over cross. Rinsing out the tank with water, letting dry and ventilating absolutely for 1 -2 days. Then unite magnets at the tank of the outside below fasten then cut use with the Dremel and separating plate firm intention approx. 4 cm of the upper edge (in the deepest place) out. By the hole of the fuel pump you can easily take out the firm intention from the tank. Vacuum cleaners collect switched on and pulled away from magnets the tank shaken a bit so that himself all shaving at this magnets, industry vacuum cleaner (a normal also does it) on the shaving held. Magnet again on this, water poured swung and once again. However, goes also without magnet if you fairly often rinse out the tank. Tubes on this, disguising to this see above have dried, install (take caution torques into account), petrol in and the post goes. To this day no problems. Time expenditure approx. 1 hour greeting Arno.

The pictures are from the Kawa driver Volkmar Heinz, manufactorer of the warning indicator and a good friend and helper of Arno. You pays special attention to the plastic cover of the stub axle in the 3rd picture. Bullets at the Hanover fair 2005th Volkmar, many thanks and I hope we see us in Bad Herrenalb.

Martin Seifert has very often looked into mirrors over the winter. The result is very beautiful:

I have taken a photograph of my different variants of the mirrors. You see exactly the handlebar end in the original mirrors. This problem overcome with the new mirrors and now you finally see in the mirrors what you would like actually to see into this. So these are the different mirror variants which I had at my EFI till now and have now. The difference of the different mirrors is clear to see. Greetings Martin.

To the brakes topic ventilates at the front wheel I have scanned the corresponding sheet from the german service manual: